Armenia

Vahe Keushguerian

I recently interviewed Vahe Keushguerdian on my podcast. Raised in Lebanon, of Armenian origin, and having made wine in several other regions, he is a winemaker who has been at the heart of the recent renaissance in Armenian wine. He’s worked with several of the producers who have started up in the last ten years or so, helping them make wine and get established. Due to the likes of Vahe, Armenia’s wines are beginning to attract attention internationally—Vahe is the star of the new SOMM movie which focuses on Armenia and Iran. This attention is most welcome, as this is one of the most historic wine-producing countries in the world.

a little history

Nearly fifteen years ago, winemaking artefacts were discovered in an Armenian cave, carbon dating showing that they were over 6,000 years old. This is the oldest evidence of a “winery” ever found, although no doubt wine had been made long before. Armenia and neighbouring Georgia vie for which is the oldest winemaking country, but it is around these two Caucasian areas that vitis vinifera emerged, gradually spread across Europe by the Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans. As the discovery of the cave revealed, Armenia is the foundation for the wine we drink today.

the cave near the village of Areni

However, Armenia’s history is complicated and it has never, until now, developed a serious wine industry with international appeal. It’s small, landlocked, and mountainous, and still quite rural. For large parts of the twentieth century, it was under Soviet rule. The centrist, authoritarian regime in Moscow imposed brandy production on Armenia as a main component of its agricultural industry (while Georgia got wine production). Today, 85% of the vines planted are still for brandy, also generically referred to as “Cognac.”

As well as Georgia, Armenia borders Turkey and Azerbaijan but the borders with the two latter countries are closed. As a landlocked country, trade has to go through either Georgia or another neighbour, Iran, but the latter does not allow alcohol to be sent over the border (although Vahe and his daughter make wine from grapes grown in Iran under the Molana label). These historical, political difficulties make it hard for any industry to grow, which explains why it’s only in the last few years, with the help of international investment, that Armenia’s wine scene has begun to emerge.

The population of Armenia is only three million while its diaspora numbers eight million. This diaspora was triggered by genocide by the Turkish Ottoman Empire from 1915-1923 in which up to one a half million people were killed. From the 1970s to the 1990s, war in Lebanon, the Revolution in Iran, and the break-up of the Soviet Union also saw waves of emigration. In theory, the large international population could be an ideal market to sell and spread Armenian wine to. However, wine drinking in Armenian culture is more for occasions and celebration, making it a small, limited market. Of more significance is the local market, Russia, and established international markets where educated consumers are willing to experiment. As the quality of Armenian wine increases, the latter is going to become more and more important.

geography & climate

Armenia is landlocked and mountainous. The climate is warm, but the high elevation plantings, often over 1,000m, cool conditions down: Armenian wines are often fruity, medium to full-bodied, with bright acidity.

One of the biggest issues is winter frost, as temperatures can fall below -25°C, temperatures which can kill vines. The tradition is to bury the vines over the winter in the soil which acts as an insulator; however, as this is time-consuming and expensive, some wineries have stopped doing this, prepared to take the risks involved. The disadvantage of not burying the vines is that new plantings are grafted on to rootstock, and it’s the grafted part of the vine that the winter freeze most damages. Old, ungrafted vines are more resistant, and because of the history of brandy production there are a number of them from which some of the most interesting Armenian wines currently come.

The largest region is Armavir, to the west of the country with plantings at between 800 and 900m elevation. The second largest region is Ararat, at about 800m elevation. Aragatsotn borders Turkey and has plantings at 1,200m which means, although it gets hot, there is still fresh acidity to the wines. Vayots Dzor is the region which, internationally, is most associated with quality. The name means “whining gorge” because of frequent seismic activity on the volcanic soils with plantings as high as 1,750m. This is where the Areni grape variety excels—the village it’s named after is where the 6,000-year-old cave was discovered.

grape varieties

Given its long viticultural history, it’s no surprise that there are many indigenous varieties—350 and more. Around thirty to forty are in reality used, with three or four most common—remembering that brandy production still dominates. The ones below are the most likely to be found internationally.

areni noir

Areni Noir (there is a white version too) is perhaps the variety associated with Armenian wine and the one with the greatest guarantee of quality. Importantly, it is resistant to winter frost. A wide range of wines is made, both dry, sweet, and for brandy, but it’s the dry red wines which are found internationally and are of very good quality. The wines are medium bodied, with firm but subtle tannins, lively acidity, red fruit, cherry, herbal, floral aromas. I think of it as a cross of Syrah and Pinot Noir in taste and structure, although Italian wine consultant Alberto Antonini, another important figure in Armenian wine, compares it to Sangiovese and Pinot Noir.

Try: Yacoubian-Hobbs Areni ($35; ✪✪✪✪✪) a classic and very classy example. Yacoubian-Hobbs is a collaboration between the Yacoubian brothers Vikan and Vahe and California winemaker Paul Hobbs. Like Vahe Keushguerian, the brothers were born in Lebanon; they’ve invested in their Armenian roots with the help of a US producer and the local expertise of Vahe, a prime example of the development of Armenian wine. NOA Areni ($30; ✪✪✪✪) has a similarly elegant, fine-tannin, crunchy red fruit profile—both wines come from the Vayots Dzor region.

voskehat

Also written Voskeat, this white variety originates from the Aragatsotn region in west Armenia and is named after the village of Voskehat just west of the capital, Yerevan. Historically, it was often used for sweet fortified wine (like brandy, generically named after more famous regions such as sherry and madeira), but now it’s also used for dry white wine and in sparkling wine blends.

Try: Voskevaz Karasi Collection Voskehat ($55; ✪✪✪✪), a rich, full-bodied white which spends six months in used oak barrels. The “White Blend” ($35; ✪✪✪✪✪) made by Yacoubian-Hobbs is 90% Voskehat and has a creamy character associated with the variety, and is reminiscent of a white Rhône blend.

milar

Also known as Kakhet and probably originating from Georgia, Milar has historically been used for sweet reds called “Kagor,” but a small amount of dry red wine is also made.

Try: Zulal Milar (✪✪✪✪✪), made by Vahe’s daughter Aimee, the two working together to promote the local grape varieties by making quality wine from them. The wine has a smoky, spicy quality, not dissimilar to Syrah but without the overt ripeness found in warmer climates. Areni and Voskehat are also made.

sparkling wine

Traditional method sparkling wine is a new category for Armenia, introduced by Vahe. His label, Keush, comes from vines grown, he claims, higher than any other sparkling wine in the world—at around 1,750m. “Origins'“ ($21; ✪✪✪✪) is a fun introduction to Armenia and its local grape varieties. Aged for around 24 months on the lees, it’s 60% Voskehat and 40% Khatouni, a more obscure, also indigenous white variety. More serious is the 2013 Blanc de Blancs ($35; ✪✪✪✪✪), one of the first traditional method sparkling wines made by Vahe (the winery was founded in 2011). A similar blend to “Origins” (70% Voskehat and 30% Khatouni), but vintage and aged for longer (36 months). In both wines, the elevation maintains high acidity, though there’s more depth, weight, and lees-based complexity in the vintage.

Most sparkling wine in Armenia is tank method. One example available internationally is Karas, which is owned by Eduardo and Julia del Aguila Eurenikan who are based in Argentina, with Michel Rolland the consultant winemaker—another example of the diaspora/international influence on the emerging Armenian wine industry.

Try: Extra Brut NV (100% Rkatsiteli—a Georgian white variety once the most planted in Armenia, though plantings have fallen). Like most tank method wines, it’s simple and fruity, and in this case a little tart ($15; ✪✪✪). I hope to see more traditional method sparkling wines in the future.

A lot has happened regarding Armenian wine in the last ten to fifteen years. Winemakers are still discovering the terroir of its grape-growing regions, even though there is thousands of years’ history. There are many grape varieties to work with, but some of their characteristics and qualities need to be relearnt. But in a short space of time, the nature and the potential of high-quality wine is already beginning to be understood. Continue to watch the development of Armenian wine.