Understanding Appellations and Wine Regulations: Outside Europe

The equivalent of appellation rules outside of Europe are usually much looser. This allows much greater liberty for producers but less information for consumers and a potential unclear identity for regions. It also means greater potential for experimentation for producers. How appellation systems have developed outside Europe gives an insight into the pros and cons of how wine regulations work.

Understanding Appellations and Wine Regulations

Appellations are a frustrating necessity: they give identity to regions and attempt to create a consistent quality and style. At the same time, producers constantly complain about the rules and regulations which they find confining and sometimes they leave the appellation completely to go their own way. So why are appellations so important?

"Vines in a Cold Climate": Book Review

Not so long ago, English wine was a niche topic; now it’s one of the most exciting trends in the wine industry. Henry Jeffreys has written a book, Vines in a Cold Climate, detailing the revolution in English wine from nothing to defined styles of wine. Essential reading for anyone interested in what’s happened, what is happening, and what is going to happen in England.

Sekt

The last twenty years has seen a radical shift in the quality of German sparkling wine (called Sekt), with the best producers either focusing almost solely on bubbles or making high-quality alternatives to their still wines. Tasting through nearly fifty Sekt wines in Germany showed the range of styles and levels of quality now being made.

The Different Sides of German Wine

When attending a tasting event featuring nearly 200 German producers, you might expect a lot of Riesling—but instead I explored lesser-known sides to German wine: grape varieties such as Weißburgunder, Spätburgunder, Silvaner, Lemberger, and Chardonnay, and regions such as Sachsen, Saale-Unstrut, Württemberg, Ahr, and Franken. Here’s an overview of the different sides of Germany beyond Riesling.

Montagne de Reims

An overview of Montagne de Reims, a region to the north of Champagne which is most famous for its Grand Cru Pinot Noir, but there’s also Chardonnay and Meunier planted, and styles vary according to the village and to the producer. A facsinating example of how terroir is more important to Champagne than is sometimes discussed.

New York's White Hybrids

25% of plantings in New York are hybrids. Many producers and commentators don’t think it’s possible to make quality wine from hybrids, but New Yorkers disagree. I tasted 21 white wines from hybrids to find out…

"Nolo" wines

Nolo wines—with no or low alcohol—have been a talking point for a while as consumers are increasingly health- and socially-conscious. However, quality has been low, as alcohol is a key component in the structure and taste of wine. But there is some good Nolo wines being made, if you know where to look. Here’s a brief overview.

“The Wines of Germany”

Review of a highly entertaining and informative new book about the wines of Germany by Stephen Bitterolf, who set up an import company, vom Boden, ten years ago. His commitment to supporting German producers is apparent throughout and the “love letters” to the regions bring them to life. Alongside beautiful photos, this is an ode to German wine.

Understanding What’s Cava and What’s Not Cava

Cava can be confusing and controversial. There are several breakaways making very similar wines due to concerns over quality—but there is still lots of great Cava being made within the designation. So why are there these rival regional entities and how do we know what to buy? Here’s an overview of the situation.

Hybrids

A recent tasting of a hybrid blend from New York opened up a discussion on the history, use, and potential quality of the many hybrids grown across North America. Often dismissed as only producing low-quality wines, hybrids nevertheless have their place in viticulture which is beginning to be more appreciated. The great question remains though: can hybrids produce quality wine…?

Armenia

Armenia’s winemaking history goes back at least 6,000 years and probably more, but it’s only over the last ten years that there has been a renaissance in quality and international exposure. In this episode, Vahe Kueshguerian—the doyen of Armenian winemaking—talks about the history of Armenia’s wine, the geography, the grape varieties, and the trends which are shaping the country’s wine culture.

Cava Discovery Week

An intense week tasting lots of Cava in New York while running from restaurant which demonstrated just how many good producers there are making wine which reflects their families’ long histories and the land the grapes are grown in.

WSET Spirits Level 3

I passed WSET Level 3 in Spirits, but it was not easy! So many fermentation techniques to learn about, so many styles of spirits. The course is an involved, intense insight into the world of spirits. Here’s what taking the course looks like,

Long Island

Long Island has a unique growing environment: the same latitude as Madrid, but heavily influenced by the Atlantic Ocean and more like Bordeaux. The region is celebrating its 50th anniversary, moving from a developing wine scene to one confident in its current direction with much more certainty about grape varieties and how to work with the sometimes difficult growing conditions. As a result, quality is far more consistent making Long Island a region to follow.

Dry Loire Chenin Blanc

Loire’s dry wines from Chenin Blanc are currently quite fashionable for their high acid, linear, food-friendly style—but that wasn’t always the case. The last 30 years have seen a lot of changes to increase quality: better picking times, less sulphur, longer ageing to make more precise, expressive wines. Understanding Loire Chenin Blanc helps us truly appreciate the style and the quality.

St-Joseph

St-Joseph is a—too—large northern Rhône appellation, which makes understanding it difficult. Historically, the best wines came from the southern part, and that’s arguably still the case now. There’s also a determination to make the boundaries more focused. Increasingly, there is excellent white wine being made too. Overall, St-Joseph is overgoing a welcome upswing in quality and consistency.

Southern Rhône: Not Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The Southern Rhône is most famous for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but there are many other wines with localised influences. Gigondas and Ventoux are affected by the cooling Dentelles de Montmarail mountains; Tavel produces fuller-bodied rosé with perhaps more experimentation than is supposed; and there are the smaller, lesser-known villages which provide particularly good value alternatives.