Languedoc

After a two+ year hiatus, I’ve been to Europe twice in the last two months. The first time was to the UK, where I visited English wine country. This time I’m taking a lot more in, visiting Languedoc, Roussillon, and Catalunya. This, therefore, is a very Mediterranean trip, exploring different expressions of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan in particular.

I started in Montpellier, a beautiful, vibrant city that lies on the southern coast of France and the eastern cusp of Languedoc before the land goes into the southern Rhône and Provence. An academically viticultural hub, Montpellier is a wonderful city to visit in its own right, with bars, restaurants, and lots of wine—and a great base to visit some of Languedoc’s wine regions.

languedoc

Languedoc is a vast region that for over the last 150 years has been the centre of France’s bulk wine industry. That means its reputation has been low, often with justification, but quality is getting higher. The inexpensive wines have to compete with those of Australia, Chile, and South Africa, which are usually cleaner and fruitier than the mass-produced wines of Languedoc used to be. Therefore, even the basic producers and growers have, however begrudgingly, had to up their game.

At the same time, there are many sub-appellations within Languedoc which produce quality wine well worth seeking out. These are a minefield for any wine student (and indeed any local producer) due to the baffling regulations for each appellation, especially on the exact percentage of grape varieties allowed. Many producers push against these regulations, so there is a lot of wine labelled Languedoc or even Vin de France rather than the specific appellation in which the grapes are grown.

Furthermore, there is a wide range of styles made. In Muscat de Frontignan and Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois (and elsewhere), there’s sweet, youthful fortified wine. In Limoux, there are bubbles made in different historic styles. There’s also plenty of white wine, usually from Rhône varieties though you might also find Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and even Gewürztraminer. But it’s for the red wines that Languedoc is most known.

my attempt at understanding the main regions of Languedoc and Roussillon…

There are many, many appellations which focus on red wine, each with their own individual characteristics. A common theme for quality is altitude, for cooling nights, difficult rocky soils, and a longer growing season. I only got to visit a couple of appellations, but they provided a general insight into Languedoc wine.

pic-st-loup

Pic-St-Loup only became an appellation in 2016, which was long overdue. It’s named after the highest local mountain, which is around 700m in elevation. This creates a microclimate which is wetter and windier, though still warm. It’s a red wine appellation, although there’s a little bit of rosé made (which is often labelled simply as Languedoc or even Vin de France so as not to distract from the appellation’s focus on red wines). Syrah is the most important grape variety, followed by Grenache, Mourvèdre, and a little bit of Cinsault (which is particularly useful for rosé). This is a different take on the GSM blends of the southern Rhône, with Syrah much more dominant.

Pic-St-Loup has long had a high reputation within Languedoc, and since its elevation to appellation status it’s become even more in demand. Not all producers are within the appellation itself, and source some fruit instead. Domaine Clavel are based just south of the appellation, where their soils—like Pic-St-Loup itself—are noticeably limestone. They only own 3ha of vineyards, buying fruit from another 17ha in Pic-St-Loup and the more westerly Montpeyroux, another small subregion which also has a high reputation for its smooth, concentrated wines. Sourcing fruit from three distinct but related areas provides lots of options. “Le Mas” is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, and Mourvèdre. Retailing at the winery for just €11, this is a youthful, ripe, crunchy wine bottled under the overall Languedoc appellation (✪✪✪✪). “Les Garrigues” is the winery’s only Grenache-dominant wine, demonstrating that Languedoc is quite different from southern Rhône. Although it’s also labelled as Languedoc, the Grenache comes from Montpeyroux, planted at higher altitude to curb the variety’s naturally high alcohol (€14; ✪✪✪✪✪). “Bonne Pioche” is more typical Pic-St-Loup, a blend of 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre, and 10% Grenache. This has the earthy meatiness one would expect from both Syrah and Mourvèdre but has a gripping, not overripe texture due to the mountain’s cooling influence (€18; ✪✪✪✪✪). As the prices indicate, the quality of these wines makes them a steal.

Mortiès are spectacularly located at the bottom of the mountain, but also label their wines under different designations. Their rosé, “C’est Comme Ça,” all from Mourvèdre (€12; ✪✪✪✪), and a 75%/25% Grenache/Carignan blend called “Encore et Encore” (€14; ✪✪✪✪), are both classed Vin de France, which allows experimental producers greater flexibility. Likewise with the producer’s very natural Viognier (€20; ✪✪✪✪), and an 80%/20% Roussanne/Vermentino (€17.50; ✪✪✪✪), which is labelled Languedoc.

Mortiès

But Mortiès also make classic Pic-St-Loup. The Rouge is a Grenache/Syrah blend, with herbal, wild flowers and red, black fruit aromas. It’s big at 14.5%, but at the same time refined and complex (€37 for a magnum; ✪✪✪✪✪). “Jamais Content” is even bigger at 15%, but has the meaty, chewy, spicy character of an 85%/15% Syrah/Grenache blend (€27; ✪✪✪✪).

Although Languedoc is dominated by some very big producers, both these wineries are family owned. Domaine Clavel started in the 2000s, and now sons Antoine (who focuses on Pic-St-Loup) and Martin (Montpeyroux) are taking the reins. Meanwhile, Richard and his mother Pascale run Mortiès. If a lot of Languedoc is about small, family growers selling fruit to big co-operatives, here are examples of families making their own distinctive, quality wine.

st-chinian

Continuing the confusing element of Languedoc labelling, St-Chinian, which is over an hour west of Montpellier, has three different appellations—St. Chinian, St. Chinian-Berlou, and St-Chinian-Roquebrun—despite not being that well known or associated with quality.

schist soils in St-Chinian

This time I visited just one producer, La Lauzeta (which means skylark), who are new to the scene. The property was bought in 2015, and, under the supervision of new winemaker Florian Bruneau, recently received biodynamic certification. It’s a beautiful property, with many plots located at different aspects and elevation, mostly facing the Mediterranean to the south. In essence, it’s an elevated, enclosed valley with its own microclimate. As with many of the more western Languedoc appellations, Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan are the most important, but Florian has introduced Cinsault to naturally keep alcohol down (Cinsault has big, watery berries). He’s also expanding plantings of white varieties, including even Riesling (he worked a harvest at Henschke in Eden Valley and reasons that if Riesling can work there, why not Languedoc?). Although the winery is a young work in progress, there is clearly an absolute dedication to quality and a desire to represent the place the vines are grown—which hasn’t always been the case in Languedoc.

It was fascinating to see a new property being crafted from an old one, as Florian discovers through educated experimentation which grape varieties work best where on the property; how best to implement biodynamic practices; how to deal with the difficult schist soil; how to manage alcohol in an ever-warming climate; and how to allow the vines access—but not too much access—to water.

As Florian admitted, his vineyard work is a process of transition and it may take another few vintages before the full potential of the property is realised. But we were able to compare two wines that he had made with those made by his winemaking predecessor.

“Mezura” is their mid-range red (€19) made from Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan. The 2016 was made with two punch downs a day during fermentation; in contrast, the 2020 was made by Florian who prefers pump overs for more balanced alcohol. The 2016 was big, fruity, and meaty (✪✪✪✪), while Florian’s not yet bottled 2020 was fresher with firm tannins from 20% new French oak for 12 months (✪✪✪✪✪). Not necessarily a radical change, but a subtle advancement in style. “La Lauzeta” 2016 was meaty, intense, and inky (✪✪✪✪); the 2019, also still to be bottled, is textured and grainy, with 24 months in oak (€32.50; ✪✪✪✪✪). These are wines which may give more kudos to the St-Chinian appellation.

It’s impossible to summarise such a vast region as Languedoc in one small article, but these wineries give an idea how Languedoc is changing and evolving. It isn’t simply about cheap wine; nor is it just an alternative to the southern Rhône. Languedoc and its various appellations are finally carving out an identity for themselves. Given it’s such a beautiful, historic, varied, and friendly region, it’s about time we give the wines the attention they deserve, just as winemakers are devoting time and dedication to their land.