All in france

Aligoté

Aligoté has had a bad reputation: it has high yields and produces wines with searingly high acidity. However, some producers in Burgundy are taking it much more seriously. If yields are contained, then the high acid is well-suited to warmer growing conditions. There are some very good wines being made, and Aligoté is becoming increasingly interesting.

Montagne de Reims

An overview of Montagne de Reims, a region to the north of Champagne which is most famous for its Grand Cru Pinot Noir, but there’s also Chardonnay and Meunier planted, and styles vary according to the village and to the producer. A facsinating example of how terroir is more important to Champagne than is sometimes discussed.

Dry Loire Chenin Blanc

Loire’s dry wines from Chenin Blanc are currently quite fashionable for their high acid, linear, food-friendly style—but that wasn’t always the case. The last 30 years have seen a lot of changes to increase quality: better picking times, less sulphur, longer ageing to make more precise, expressive wines. Understanding Loire Chenin Blanc helps us truly appreciate the style and the quality.

St-Joseph

St-Joseph is a—too—large northern Rhône appellation, which makes understanding it difficult. Historically, the best wines came from the southern part, and that’s arguably still the case now. There’s also a determination to make the boundaries more focused. Increasingly, there is excellent white wine being made too. Overall, St-Joseph is overgoing a welcome upswing in quality and consistency.

Southern Rhône: Not Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The Southern Rhône is most famous for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but there are many other wines with localised influences. Gigondas and Ventoux are affected by the cooling Dentelles de Montmarail mountains; Tavel produces fuller-bodied rosé with perhaps more experimentation than is supposed; and there are the smaller, lesser-known villages which provide particularly good value alternatives.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is one of the most famous names in French wine, producing a full-bodied style of wine most consumers are familiar with. However, the wines are much more diverse than its reputation suggests, with varied soil types, many grape varieties, aspect influences, weather patterns, and producer choices all influencing the final style of wine. A quick visit to the appellation showed that Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a lot of surprises to offer.

La Cité du Vin in Bordeaux

La Cité du Vin was opened in 2016, and is worth visiting Bordeaux in its own right. Last week was the second time I’ve been there and it’s well worth repeatedly visiting: after all, I got a glass of Bulgarian sparkling wine at the end, with views over Bordeaux as I sipped. What’s not to love?

St. Emilion & Pomerol

St-Emilion and Pomerol neighbour each other and are always Merlot dominant, but there are lots of differences within the regions: soils, viticultural practices, aspect, quality, and the prices of the wines. Two prestigious regions which are hard to pin down.

Haut-Médoc

A brief trip to Haut-Médoc to learn about the growing conditions, the effects of climate change, the styles of wine, and the effect of the Garonne river and Gironde estuary on the four famous villages of St-Estèphe, Paulliac, St-Julien, and Margaux.

Sauternes

Sauternes is a famous region for sweet wine in the south of Bordeaux. On a brief visit there, I learnt all about the importance of climate, inconsistent weather, and rivers, how noble rot develops, and how the wines of Sauternes are made. And I got to visit Château d’Yquem!

Languedoc

Languedoc: a vast region that’s difficult to wrap one’s head around. But a brief trip to Pic-St-Loup and St-Chinian gave an insight into the high-quality potential that small producers are capable of fulfilling.

The White Wines of the Rhône

The Rhône is best known for its red wines, but there’s a fair amount of white wine made too, varying in style and price point: rich and aromatic to fresh and easy-drinking. That diversity makes white Rhône well worth exploring.

Revisiting Beaujolais

Has Beaujolais finally shrugged off its Nouveau image? The wines are now considered as serious and distinctive, with their own identity. So it’s time to revisit the region and consider what makes Beaujolais so unique.

Malbec & Cahors

Cahors is the traditional heartlaand of Malbec, and is the only appellation in France dedicated to the variety. Due to the success of Malbec in Argentina, there’s a renewed sense of purpose in Cahors with an astonishing range of styles made from just the one variety but from many different soil types and aspects. After meeting a number of producers, I came away with the impression of a dynamic, ever-changing region.

The Vins Doux Naturels of Roussillon

Vin Doux Naturel is one of the great, historic styles of fortified wine, made all over the south of France. It’s not a fashionable or well-known style, but it’s been made for centuries and is full of history. There is an incredible range of wines made, from fresh and fruity to oxidative and mature, making it extraordinarily versatile. I got to taste the wines of several producers—including a wine from 1895, which made the 1959 look young…

Cru Bourgeois

It can be difficult to find good Bordeaux that’s also affordable. Cru Bourgeois is a category which offers approachable, good-value Cabernet Sauvignon based wines. Read more to find out about these alternatives to expensive Left Bank wines.

Meursault

Meursault is a village in the heart of Côte de Beaune famous for producing rich, opulent wines. But things are changing as I found out at a tasting - the wines now are designed to be more expressive of the part of the village they come from.

Champagne

Champagne is one of the iconic wines of the world. But why is it sparkling? Why is it made like it is? My recent trip to the region gave an insight into the history of style of champagne, which is much imitated but rarely replicated.