The White Wines of the Rhône
The Rhône Valley is a vast and slightly confusing region. The one constant is that it’s based around the Rhône river, but it encompasses several, distinct regions. The river’s journey begins in the Swiss Alps east of Lake Geneva, flowing down to Lyon where it meets the river Saône in a magnificent confluence. Winding southwards, the great regions of Côte Rôtie, Hermitage, and Cornas rest on the steep slopes rising up from the river. After that, there’s a break in the vineyards (apart from the historic sparkling wine appellation of Die). The river then flows in a generally straighter line to the Mediterranean Sea, passing flatter but just as renowned regions such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape along the way.
In other words, to think of the Rhône as one region misses the geographical diversity and size of the river. The Rhône is often broken down into the northern Rhône, where the climate is moderate and continental, and the southern Rhône, where it’s warm and Mediterranean. And we shouldn’t overlook the Swiss wines in the Valais region, where grapes such as Arvine and Silvaner are planted for high-acid whites.
The styles of wine are therefore quite different, but in general the Rhône is most associated with red wine: northern Rhône for Syrah and southern Rhône for Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre based blends. The former are meaty and peppery, the latter big, bulky, and tannic.
The wines range from some of the best value to some of the most expensive and revered red wines in the world. But the white wines should not be overlooked, as they can provide an interesting, richer alternative to Burgundy.
northern rhône
Perhaps the most famous white grape of the northern Rhône is Viognier, sometimes used in Côte Rôtie to stabilize color and tannin. It’s an aromatic grape that can be difficult to work with. In too warm conditions, alcohol becomes high and acidity low; in cooler conditions, it can struggle to ripen. The terraced slopes of Condrieu provide balanced growing conditions for rich, powerful wines which are usually aged in oak. Despite the quality, these aren’t necessarily ageworthy and are often best drunk three to five years after the vintage. They’re also expensive, at $50+; for good-value alternatives check out the broader appellation of Collines Rhoadiennes. For example, Martin Clerc's Viognier retails for $20 and is a fresh, aromatic, creamy, food-friendly wine.
The two other white grapes are Marsanne and, to a lesser extent, Roussanne. Marsanne has a waxy, nutty character and is the base for the great whites of Hermitage, often aged in oak for a rich, creamy style and sometimes blended with Roussanne for aromatics and acidity. These powerful, concentrated wines are also expensive; other northern Rhône appellations can provide more affordable alternatives.
Faury's white St-Joseph ($37) is a classic northern Rhône white, 60% Marsanne and 40% Roussanne. Aged for ten months on its lees, its rich, round style means that it could be paired with filet mignon or any red meat dish: white northern Rhône allows for adventurous food pairing. Meanwhile, Laurent Fayolle's white Crozes-Hermitage ($38) is 100% Marsanne and akin to white Burgundy, aged in 20% new oak for a creamy style which pairs well with chicken or fish dishes. A more unusual blend, which is classified as Vin de France as it doesn’t fall under St-Joseph’s appellation rules, is “Etincelle Blanc” ($31) by father and son winemakers Pierre et Jérôme Coursodon. It’s 70% Viognier and 30% Roussanne, indicating that otherwise traditional producers are willing to experiment.
southern rhône
The wines of the more southerly and warmer region are just as powerful, but different in their make-up. In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, neither Marsanne nor Viognier is allowed. Instead, Roussanne is more important. In part, that’s because Marsanne and Viognier struggle to retain their acidity in the warm growing conditions. It’s also because Viognier is so difficult to grow that it simply wasn’t included in the initial appellation rules created in the 1930s.
Roussanne, named after its russet-colored skins, in contrast retains its acidity to give a freshness to the rich style. It forms the base of white Châteauneuf-du-Pape and other southern Rhône regions, but, like the reds, the wines are often a blend, with varieties such as Grenache Blanc, Piquepoul, Clairette, or Bourboulenc. These are used for their acidity, body, or aromatics for a balanced finished wine—they can sometimes even find their way into the red wines.
White Châteauneuf-du-Pape is expensive, so it’s always a bonus to find good quality, more affordable wines from other regions, including Languedoc not too far away. In Languedoc, though, the rules are less set: Les Traverses de Fontanès ($20) is a blend of Rolle (Vermentino), Clairette, and Chenin Blanc (planted more in Languedoc than people perhaps realise). It demonstrates how fresh the white wines of southern France can be, alongside the fuller-bodied wines designed to be paired with the local rich dishes. And if you want something really fresh, acidic, seafood-friendly, and inexpensive then Picpoul de Pinet hits all the spots.
Due to the many regions and climates, there is a great deal of diversity to the wines of the Rhône and neighboring regions; blending different grape varieties also adds to the range of styles. That's true of the more famous red wines, and it's certainly also true of the lesser-known whites, with a mixture of rich, full-bodied wines and fresh, easier-drinking wines suitable for the warm climate.
